Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Ciudad - 18 de Noviembre, 2009


¡Hola!

Well, Ian and I have returned to the city of Oaxaca after some time on the beach, again. It seemed neccesary after Ian caught a cold, I caught some sort of respiratory infection, and now Ian has caught a cold, again. He has a theory that we´re simply swapping some sort of virus back and forth until it reaches critical mass and swamps forth from our embattled organs to wreck havok abroad. I think we drink too much.

I wanted to put up some photos from Mexico City, an absolutely phenomenal place that now holds a dear chunk of heart in it´s talons. Someday I now dream of having an apartment there and staying for a goodly chunk of time. We´re off to a farm to do some work for the next two-three weeks, so until then, here´s some images from the liveliest city I´ve ever seen:


Outside the Belle Artes
Looking out from the top of the Angel of Indepencia statue.
At Teotihuacan, early in the morning.
The size of the pyramid.
At the opening day of the bull season. (I was reading a lot of Hemingway)

Well, that's about as much as I can do today. Off to the farm for a while, much love to all.

Nick

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Burned out boots - November 11th, 2009

Heyo all,

Well, we've just pulled into the city of Oaxaca, pursuing our continental drift if you will, further and further south. Perhaps it's the fabric of our Canadian passports pulling us towards those places ever warmer and warmer.

We feel, it seems, as if we somehow, in lieu of leaving Mexico City, actually escaped, as once it sank it's delightful jaws into our wallets we could feel the doom looming above. Mexico City is, to say the least, a frankly unbelievable leviathan of human endeavour. The streets course and throb with people, as would be expected when twenty-two million of them press upon the same dry lakebed, but within, and somehow underneath, this pulsing mob, they leave nary a srap of litter, or an uncongenial smile. Instead, you will find, should you venture, a city of the most audacious design, run through with cafes, boulevards, monoliths, ruins, castles, towers, pillars, parks, and people, people, people, all of such outwardly happy disposition and high civil ethics that I am sure you will be left wondering if it is Spanish you are supposed to be speaking, or simply a general language of human decency.

If I can sum up our opinions to date, which I can never really express to our hosts and friends here, it is that the somehow created mythos of Mexico, that of a northern, dry, burned out and littered country of moustaches and donkeys, is somehow the product of an ingenious foreign department which has taken upon itself to hide what is so obviously one of the jewels of the world from the prying and perhaps probing fingers of the global tourist body. There is simply no other way to describe it. The surprise, the wonder.

Anyways, some days back we hiked down and up to the volcano Paricutin. The lava field stretched on dozens of kilometers in every direction, and we made the summit after a rather grueling ordeal. Here's some photos of the ruins left by the whims of nature, and the impromptue party guest the volcano represents.
We hope, oh so desperately hope, to find a farm to shelter us for the next two weeks, while the scurrying locusts who occupy our wallets find time to die.

Nick

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Like laundry, but dirtier - November 03, 2009

And so up, down, around and rinsed I find time to send off some words and move some photos to this arid space.

We've grabbed a day here in Uruapan, "the city of oh-my-god-there's-hot-water", not far from Morelia, "the city of unfathomably nice sunsets", in the state of Michoacan, the "don't tell anyone else we're here" state.

It's been very whirlwind the last week since Ian and I left Chapala and the hospitality of my parents, since then we've bounced to Guadalajara for some always delicious couch surfing, wandered southsouthsouth to the neigh-unvisited coast for some tropical soul balm, pondered all the back up to Morelia, camped in Tzintzunzan for dia de muertos, and now some long-desired shower action in Uruapan before we try to climb Paricutin, that volcano you might have heard about that just kind of crashed the geological timeline and showed up late to the party without an invitation.

Life continues to look like this:
Often like this:
And yes, I apologize, sometimes like this:
In case some of you might have started missing me.

When we return in a couple days, after very hopefully not falling into a volcano, or off, or through, I'll hopefully have some photos of Dia de Muertos ready.

Thanks,

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Anniversary - October 10th, 2009

Four years ago, a twenty-two year old version of me strapped on an overweight and brand-new backpack, and started hitchhiking down the QE2 towards what he hoped was a better life.

The years that have stretched since that day have passed as zephyrs, bloated with experience, passed by now as slow symphonies, which remain above, curling, silently portraying the life lived within.

I have lived on different continents, upon islands ringed in sand, others born from frozen seas, some adorned with green, have found peace atop ponderous mountains, above forlorn storms, have pressed among crowds a million colors and more. Slept amongst predators and prey, in the smoldering ashes of northern fires and under the perfect clarity of the southern stars, upon the floors of countless bathrooms, countless couches, countless hearts with countless dreams. I have passed through the fingers that held danger, with luck and with scars, have seen a final reflection of myself in the eyes of another, the days which hold promise and the nights which forgive, the passing of friends unto their deaths, the passing of deaths into their memories, the passing of days, and hours, and breaths.

It is difficult to believe that so much has been lived in so few years, that when looked upon in remembrance it brings such a great pain, such a deepening sadness of memory, for the dearest ones who now live so far.

For the beginnings, the innocence, the shorn and somber boy of Vancouver that first winter, who was the first time away, and yet overwhelmed with the daily joy of living. The first winter in the far north, frozen and vulnerable, a summer without darkness, and the heart bent to burst upon the rocks of the east coast. A house of dreams, with friends whose eyes held poorly-hid fires of beauty, when the heart burns so bright, and the flames lick the walls.

And then one day for the forever, a choice to pursue the only choice there ever was, and suddenly a country so far away that even the sunrise spoke time zones. The movement on a city of tracks, a culture of coins, the nights of buildings within buildings, a city of secrets. And then and forever, finally and with invitation, a cause for crusade and sacrifice and poetry: love.

And then the peaks and the shock and the height, a place without breathing and without compromise, where the people spoke foreign volumes and blew dynamited holes in convention. A place with deep jungles wherein lay deep madness, a place for the roof of the world, and then upon that, the attic of the sky. And finally, something of peace.

And on, and on, and on, upon the white cliffs I have found to dash myself, upon the emerald hills, the ancient city, the lonely deserts of the arab winds, and on, and on, towards everything and nothing, towards promise and fatique, from and back again, a circle, where I live spinning, chasing, fleeing, haunted and haunting, alive and asleep, a man on fire, the future made bright.

I was writing the names of you. But they are in all the same, but one name, the same strike of longing within my chest. How I miss you all, how I wish you the best, how I shall see you again.


-nicholas

Friday, August 21, 2009

Montana - August 21st, 2009

Why howdy folks,

Been a long summer without much word, especially now that I've filled my days from sunup to sundown with work. I'm leaving Edmonton at the end of September, and heading down to Mexico for a few months with the indomitable Ian French, but until then, here's a quick video of the trip my brother and I recently took to the Kertesz cabin in Belt, Montana. (pop. 600 + trucks)

Sunday, May 10, 2009

The way of the west - May 10th, 2009

Hello all,

I'm off to Ireland in a couple hours, bound over on the tin carcass of Ryan Air, with a planned descent into Knock airport in the west of Ireland. My farm that I'm working on is somewhere hereish:

On the north-west coast of Ireland in the "mountains". The folk I'm staying with sound incredibly nice, and if my luck holds out they'll need acres and acres of bushland cleared, probably the kind of bush that only really respects skinny white kids, if I'm really lucky.

I don't know much about the couple who own the farm, save that they have a sense of humour I really appreciate, and that they have made several obscure references to fairies, which could go either way I think.

It'll be a wonderful two weeks of Guiness and wandering, and if the internet rears it's head you'll hear from me often. If anything else rears it's head though, it'll probably kill me.

Anyways, I'll talk to you all soon, and if you live in Canada, I'll see you in a few weeks.

Nick

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Make it show - May 9th, 2009

Well, looks like my ancient, recently twenty-six body is still able to type, so hopefully I'll stay out of the rest home this year, although from the swelling in my knees I can tell it's going to rain tomorrow.

Had an explosively wonderful birthday yesterday, and as I begin this year (and this morning), sipping on some amaretto and orange juice, I can't help feeling everything will continue as such.

We had acquired tickets to a performance of Beckett's "Waiting For Godot", as the current cast included Patrick Stewart and Ian McKellan, and I also some of the script tattooed on my body.


It was a fantastic experience, although I hadn't remembered any Klingons or Hobbits in the original script, I'm sure that's just my aging mind starting to slip.

In another bit about artistic genius, I'm on BBC2 today in a reality show, most properly described as Visual Torture, where upon an excruciatingly unfunny comedian attempts to do some sort of fake space briefing to a panel of mollified, hideously embarrassed young people. I unfortunately count myself amongst the latter, and the whole thing turned out to be unpaid. Bollocks.

Anyways, that's on at noon, London-time, so anyone with a satellite subscription so superfluous that they receive BBC2, see you then.

I'm off to Ireland tomorrow afternoon for a couple of weeks of farm work on the west coast, but I'll talk about that tomorrow, after the glorious shame of today has worn off.

Thanks for all the birthday love everybody, it was stellar.

Nick

Friday, May 1, 2009

broadcasting - May 1st, 2009

It's been such a while since I've been pushed enough to write, and while my life is less for the sharing, the wants to alchemize the moments of my days into an internet script have waxed and waned these few years of travel, and I have no reason to expect they have not again.

As the days of winter drew on, and this steadfast mire of London became ossified and comfortable, I thought often of the grand plans of spring and the news from which I would draw. But as the days have softened, and the gardens of London, that is, the wide greens that form the gaps in it's grays, have boiled over with blossoms, those great plans have indeed come to be, and I have still left their wake unnoticed. In the last month, we have jaunted to Amsterdam for a quick visit with our friend Natalja, and the past week we rode a rickety tandem bicycle all the way to Paris, a feat to say the least. In so doing I expected a more thorough spark to ignite in my typing, I was hoping to skim off the top of this simmering recipe and hold it out for my dear ones to taste, but the act of broadcasting seems somehow repugnant. Like a summer day when the clouds suddenly eat the sun, and you're left feeling topless and a fool. Ach, this is what happens when you don't feed the metaphors...

Alrighty, here is a picture of Amsterdam, taken from the top of a huge carnival ride (made of swings and devilish intentions) that was situated right in the middle of the city.
But as you can see, this photo really doesn't explain anything, like all the photos of this marvelous city I tried to shoot. I would like to spin a spiraling anecdote about how Amsterdam cannot be captured on film, because of it's vibrant life, or something, but really it is such an upfront and spectacular city that I can't imagine that my excuses would be in any way true. The truth is, if I wanted to explain our time in Holland with our friend, it would look as simple as this:

Actually, it looks more like Jess is yawning than screaming in delight, but you get the point.

Anyways, Holland was fun, we took a boat, I realized the sea really isn't that romantic, more kind of there. And flatty.

Then a week later we took our crazy English tandem bicycle, I left all my self-respect at home, and we rode off south towards Paris. I have some shots I wouldn't mind putting up, but for now I'll embed a video of the trip I made shortly afterwards.

WARNING, This video is as sappy as a Matchbox 20 Kittens For Africa promo, and I really must strongly advice those with any normalacy to skip it, unless you like vomity bonding at a level of Armaggedon. (The movie, not the biblical end of times, which I imagine is not actually that mushy.)



Hopefully talk to you soon,
Nick

p.s. Here you are Natalja, now you're famous...

Sunday, April 19, 2009

From Holland to Paris - April 19th, 2009

We're off to Paris tomorrow via this monster:
If it doesn't explode on the way, I'll tell you all about it on Sunday.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Istanbul - March 16th, 2009

Hey, it's warmer today in London than in Turkey.

I guess spring has riz, all the wild flowers have invaded our primply manicured parks and threaten to overthrow all the careful planning.

Anywho, just a quick note for all ye out there in Edmonton, I'll be home for the summer, and I would love to have the job thing sorted out before July. Anyone with a connection that is just sitting around rusty, and thinks they somehow need much, much more Nick in their daily lives, let me know, I'm all in.

Found out yesterday there are 60 applicants for every single job in my burough. You want to bag groceries? Get in line my friend...

N.

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Dust and Boulders - March 14th, 2009

[PAN IN]

-INT. Mr. Roger's Living Room

(MR. ROGERS IS ASLEEP UNDER BENCH, HE YAWNS)

"Yaaaaawwwwn."




And that, I think, would about sum it up.

Back again? I think so, or at least the recently delivered latte beeps in agreement. Mister Andrew Fanning, of the well-known Fantastics, has just left London for his adventures in Paris, and his two-day visit helped provide a much-needed spark to the occurances here. Jess and I are heading to Amsterdam to visit our friend Natalja in mid-April, and after that apparently are going to cycle to Paris ourselves. (see: here) Hmmm...

I'm going to do some more Wwoofing in May, which for those of you who remember our Jungle Slavery period of Bolivia, means working on farms in return for room and board, but those farms being in wildly awesome places. In this instance I'm heading to Ireland, where there are a couple of farms that look cool, namely those on tiny islands off the west coast. I have to say, it's really charming when Irish people try to warn you about Atlantic weather, and you try to explain Newfoundland.

Plans within plans aside, I am also gloriously returning to Canada for the summer. The glory being most assuredly not mine, but the sense of home I cannot wait to revel in. I'm visiting my grandmother in Toronto in June (Sarah, prepare yee thine liver), and then coming to E-Ville for the summer. Anyone with a heads-up on a cool job for me should definitely hold forth, and no, jokes that involve mayonnaise will not be considered original or helpful.

In September there are options aplenty, if Mister Ian French chooses to pursue his own ill-fated education, then I am most probably going to Tokyo for a year, otherwise our wandering of mountains appears assured. Those plans however are just too far away to consider temporal.

Also in life: I have melted a laptop with the Great Linux Experiment of 2009, and have a very lovely plastic space-brick that does a remarkable job of holding down papers in the wind. I'm about to wrap up my Arabic lessons, and while I can doodle people's names in cool letters, I am still unable to conjure up such complex sentences as "I am making toast", and "You are wearing my pants", leaving my command of the language futile. I got totally boned by the BBC a few weeks ago, where I endured hours of the most horrible social awkwardness I can imagine, and they didn't even end up paying me. But if the show ever airs, 'll let you know.

London is filled with new-born flowers, the days slowly soften from black to grey, and I am typing into the sunrise.

Nick.

Friday, January 23, 2009

From whence I went - January 23rd, 2009

Hello all, from a brief respite.

Halfway through all the blabbing of travels the wind kind of went out of me, perhaps, and I presume so, drawn out by the routine drifts of a rapidly returning ascent to normalcy here in London.

As I've seen before, the dreaded 9-5, (or 5-10, as it may be in my case), leaves little urges to record splendor, or see the interesting amidst the interring, but of course that is a theme for the greater coursing masses anyways, and I'll take my rain cheque on the philosophy.

It's late January now, the wicked wanders of the season have moved a bit within memories, from invigorating to nostalgic, a bit like turning possibility into fantasy, from aqua into unda. Meanwhile my work has dried up a bit as we enter the slower season, leaving what could be ample opportunities for free-space, that I must admit have turned to forgotten days under my watch. I'm in classes for Arabic, violin, and a choir (ha!), but it always sounds a mite more engaging in a list, and less so in the reality of eastern scribbling and D flats. (Oh, there are many, many of those.)

Plans are being made heartily with Monsieur Ian French (of the recently engaged), to travel this summer, east and east again, so the future is very open. Financially daunting, but open. Kind of like a Planet Organic, exotic and forbidden.

Off to the Tate Modern again this afternoon. Meh, it's free.

As the documents of the days come before me I shall post them on the cork, I promise.

Nick.

P.s. This is a photo of my theatre:
The cardboard box I sleep in is behind Row W.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Markets and Kasbahs- January 11th, 2008

Well I hope everyone is doing cool out there in the January snows, except Andrew in Colombia, he can go screw himself.

Anyways, I was rambling last time about the beginnings of our sojourn to Morocco, and I figure I might as well continue in that vein, at least until the photos or duty-free liquor runs out.

Jess and I landed in Marakkech, and the rambling medina and promised bazaars greeted us under the crescent moon, dangling so perfect in the starred sky I half-expected Jess had ordered it just for us.

Our first hotel set the tone for the kind of beauty we'd come to expect in our budget sleeping arrangements, with an intricate detail unexpected for traveler's prices. Everything we touched, or person we met outside of our comfy confines however, resulted in us paying a fee. Directions? Pay. Smiling? Pay. Standing still for four seconds? Oh, you gotta pay.

The vibe in such a heavily traveled country is somewhat... extortionist.















Anyways, we had our first chance to finally wander the alleys and tunnels of an Arabic market, narrow and winding labyrinths where color and confusion pour forth into suddenly new born eyes. A place where concepts like Orange, or Green, are sourced to fuel the rest of the world.





















Continuing the blitz we grabbed a bus to Ourzazate, and in a stunning display of audacity, Jess rented a car and agreed to drive as far south as we could, although our plans were somewhat dented when it was discovered the car ran not on happy times and sugar dates, as we hoped, but on gasoline, which is some sort of black goo that is crazy expensive, and most definitely does not taste like sugar dates, which I can assure you of.

Anyways, we drove to an old abandoned desert castle/house called Ait Benhaddou, which, despite featuring in movies like Gladiator and The Mummy, contained neither golden treasures or Russell Crowe. (Okay, Crowe was there, but he was pretty annoying and kept trying to hawk postcards and dvds of Master and Commander, and so most of us just ignored him.)


I feel this post becoming unglued, so I'll wrap up for today. But before I start to feel too snazzy, I should include this self-depricating moment. I would like to state that I was just tossing my head, and Jess took a photo at a really bad time, but I know my pleading would fall on deaf ears, because I look like a cross between a Head & Shoulders commercial, and a dude with a fraggle in his pants.

Until later,

Nick

Friday, January 9, 2009

Moroc - January 10th, 2008

Monkeys.

When one does not perhaps know where to begin, one should always begin with one's best, which is, normally, monkeys. And in the relating of the last week of traveling through Morocco, that just so happens to be the end of the tale, and so from there I must admit, all things spiral outwards and downwards. (So if you find yourself in the reading suddenly lost, or rather, unfound, then think back to the beginning, and let the primative power carry you hence.)

As I mentioned before, Jessica gave me a trip to Morroco for Christmas, a stunning gift made possible only by audacity and EasyJet. (See: Discount Air Lines) With a week to spend traversing an entire country, we were excited at the prospect of abandoning our usual hardened travel routines, in some cases, that meant cultural sensitivity, but in most, it meant soap.

Giving in to the blitzkrieg style of backpacking that is often seen desecrating decorating international hostels, we wolfed down a formidable chunk of Moroccan highway during our visits to Marakkech, Ouarzazate, Zagora, Fes, Tangiers, and Gibraltar. In so returning to our frost-bitten London, I come to terms with the fact that I have not bathed since the year two thousand and eight. Which, I mean, come on, was a pretty banner year in hygiene for everyone.

Tomorrow morning I'll start the story in it's proper place, but for tonight, as the evening inches into the dawn, I'll content myself with chipping the sand and dirt from my skin, fumigating my clothes, and welcoming to my flat the growing menagerie of African skin tics I have no-doubt brought across the Mediterranean.

Araka fi ma ba'ad,

Nick.

Friday, January 2, 2009

Abroad - January 2nd, 2008

Hey all,

Well, Sarah has just grabbed her train to Manchester, and with her goes all the photographic evidence of our liver-busting escapades the past few days. New Year's Eve started with men in kilts and kids in rubber pants, and finally round down dozens of hours later with Phil, the Nigerian Prince. With any luck Miss Robertson will be able to get some of her photos to me so I can display the circus.

Anyways, I'm writing this from Gatwick airport right now, as Jess and I are about to board our flight to Marakkech. We'll be spending the next week in Morocco, and then taking a ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar to catch our flight home. I expect to be back on the 9th, and I don't have any worries, seeing as I've mastered what I feel is a wide grasp of the Arabic language, including sentences about how I'm doing, how you're doing, how he/she is doing, and if today is, in fact, Monday. (Of course, for all these questions the only answer I have is "No No, too expensive.")

With any luck I'll get some Sahara in my socks, so wish me well,

Nick